Weihnachten

Well, I’m four pieces of delicious Milka chocolate into my Advent calendar meaning the holiday season is officially upon us. Vienna is simply magical. Austria is simply magical. I love this city and I love this country.

Thanksgiving was certainly different this year. TAs in Niederoesterreich received an invitation for an formal governmental welcome for that Thursday and I made the journey to St. Poelten with my colleagues. We were given an extensive tour of the land museum, government buildings, and presented with a wonderful spread of cold cuts, bread, cheese, and assorted alcoholic beverages. However the governor himself happened to be “too busy” for us making the whole thing a bit of a disappointment. I was unable to make my much anticipated mashed potatoes and squash until Saturday due to this evening out and my school’s open house on Friday night. Needless to say I sort of pigged out and still have a surplus of potatoes. I do miss pumpkin pie, turkey, and stuffing. Oh Pumpkin pie..

Walking through the main square in Hollabrunn and nearly anywhere in Vienna fills me with that warm and fuzzy holiday feeling, and certainly makes up for Thanksgiving. A rather large tree now sits in Hollabrunn and the streets are full of Glüwein stands. Vienna is absolutely glowing. Lights illuminate the streets with shades of blue, white, and gold and I can’t help wish I was a child again. Christmas markets are bustling and full of energy and joy. Joy. I can’t think of a better word. Everything is, again, just so warm and fuzzy. You can’t help but feel giddy and jolly.

So far I’ve been to a few Christmas markets with friends, and have loved them all. The Rathaus market is closest to my apartment, but its extremely gawdy and touristy. I was equate it to Coeur D’Alene, Idaho. Pristine setting and backdrop, yet confusingly consumerist and touristy contents. The Punsch tastes like Robitussin.

Idaho. I mean, the Rathaus.

However this is easily countered by Schönbrunn and Spitelberg, which are very traditional and quaint.

Yesterday a group of us ventured to Steyr, a typically Austrian (read: fairytale type of charming) town in OberOesterreich. We spent the day roaming the cobblestone streets, taking in the Christmas air and enjoying sweet treats. The main square was full of stands and shops selling handcrafted gifts and tasty treats; lots of metal workers demonstrating their talents and other artisans displaying their works. I’m pretty sure we made the local news by simply standing and gawking at the blacksmiths. While eating ridiculously delicious (and oily!) Goulasch we were serenaded by the men’s choir and horn ensemble. It was all just too precious.

While I gawk at the Christmas atmosphere and all of this Austria-ness I struggle to put this into words. Yes, it is precious. We simply don’t have anything like this in America. I’m sorry, but only in Austria is it completely normal to find the adorable old man in his leiderhosen drinking wine and belting holiday tunes with his buddies in the center of town. Or a woman offering her “homemade medicine” for 2.50, aka Jagermeister with a hint of something we just can’t put our fingers on. When asked where she was from she responded, simply, the North Pole.  

Lately I have just felt my heart fill with love and joy. I am so completely happy and content in this city.