Destination: Croatia

The recent hastening of the passage of time has left me feeling quite breathless, overwhelmed, and inexplicably content. I've been here for nearly eight months, parts of which seemed to last an eternity, and parts of which have gone with the blink of an eye. While perhaps I've spent an inordinate amount of time relaxing and doing nothing at all I've also been enjoying every last moment here in Vienna and in Europe.

Around Easter time my friend Nisha and I started feeling that itch. That annoying, restless feeling one gets as they start to dream of foreign places and people that smile. No offense, Wieners. The sea, culture, history. I am quite content here in Vienna, but at that moment I just needed to get out.

After an absurd amount of time spent looking up train tickets and promising airline deals Nisha and I settled on 29 euro round trip bus tickets to Zagreb, Croatia. (Ooh yea) We left our return open ended, thus leaving with no plan, no set destination(s), and enough clothes to get us through two-ten days if need be. In other words, I packed my tiny purple backpack and hoped for the best.

While my Birkenstocks did prove a bit useless on the slick white stone streets of Split, and we could have used another umbrella, I would say we did pretty well.

In lieu of recounting the details of our trip I will tell you that Croatia was everything we had hoped for and more. Though we didn't find Goran Visnjic, we dipped our feet in the Adriatic and roamed ancient streets of stone amongst some very jolly locals.

Zagreb was a very intriguing city, not like what I had expected at all. The mix of modern European, Eastern, and ancient cultures is very striking. The streetcars felt like something out of a movie, and the language unlike anything I have heard before. Despite our best efforts we found it impossible to remember a simple "hello" and "thank you." We stayed in the most chill hostel out of the center in a residential area full of blooming trees and narrow streets. We spent our time in the country's capital sipping coffee and laying in the sun wondering where the next few days would take us.

We soon found ourselves coasting into Zadar to the tune of Coldplay's "Paradise," excited beyond words to see the sea. Once to our hotel, or rather apartment complete with Fern Gully Tree wall, we strolled along the water to the old center of town. There were happy dogs, families, Roman Ruins, churches, beautiful buildings, and most importantly, sunshine. Warm sunshine. Of course the two of us were sweating and the locals were in winter coats. Everyone we came across was very kind and generous, the fish was incredible, and sea seemed to have a magical effect on both of us.

Split was rainy and a bit chilly, but not enough to dampen our spirits. Due to the wet weather we shamelessly watched a decent amount of TV and feasted on Croatia's version of Mannerschnitten. The family sized version.

Rain aside, Split was incredible. Again I had some difficulty with the stone streets, but fell in love with the sea and the feel of the old city. We drank coffee and roamed aimlessly, stumbling upon ruins and palaces. Easter morning was bright and gorgeous, so naturally we drank more coffee, enjoyed some (a lot) of chocolate, and relaxed by the harbour.

We spent hours on buses travelling from one city to the next, and even got the grand tour detour through the mountains. This was only mildly terrifying, but no one else seemed to notice but the two English speaking tourists.

This was a much needed and refreshing break from Vienna, yet it felt so good to return home.

No Reservations

 Though I have no idea how to break into the business, it has always been my dream to become the next Anthony Bourdain. Perhaps with less of an attitude problem, and a greater desire to push my boundaries and keep snarky comments to myself.

 Alright, so maybe I'm not that eager to jump in front of a camera, but hey, what a sweet gig! If you've never heard of him, Anthony Bourdain hosts a travel-the-world-one-plate-at-a-time show called No Reservations, the title of which has become one of my personal mantras. While the phrase could be taken many ways, I like to think of it as having nothing to lose, and everything to gain. I'll go into a situation with no reservations.

Latelly this has led me to tour the Catacombs beneath St. Stephens, drink copious amounts of sweet Austrian wine, spontaneously travel to Croatia, and hear Carmina Burana performed at the Musikverein.

In Lieu of chronicling every last detail here are some photos:

After watching Bourdain's Vienna episode Holly and I set out to track down the perfect Sausage and tour the city.

April Fools!

Meredith and I at the Easter Market in true Hapsburg style.

Unfortunately the Easter season has passed, thus marking an end to the Milka Egg era of my stay. Alas, I'll be filling my suitcase with other chocolately confections and shall continue to live every moment here as if my stay is coming to a close.

Oh, well, it sort of is.

Prost, to Spring and new adventures.

-Austrian Muffin, and my Husky friends

Surprise!

Bike Fest at the Rathaus! This was such a wonderful surprise, as I had no idea this was happening. There were these guys flipping and tumbling through the air, a chamois-clad accapella group, DJs playing our favorite 80s tunes (if you've ever been in Europe you have absolutely had that moment, or moments, in which you are standing in a most epic location whilst "Dancing Queen," something by Celine Dion, or a 90s song you never knew existed floats through the air), and a bike parade rounded out the morning.

Here are some of my favorite happenings:

Unicorn Bike

The beginning of the Parade



This Guy.



...A Little Help from My Friends

 Time. Flys. I don't know how I feel about this..


 The past two months have been truly incredible. Vienna has began its transition, though a bit spastically, into Spring and I've ventured to distant places, celebrated holidays, and made the most of my time here. I have been lucky enough to have quite a few visitors, with two Ithacans in Vienna as of late.

 Christie O'Shea is currently spending her last few precious days in Paris, France, where she is working as an Au Pair. Fortunately she took a trip through Germany and ended up here with me. During her stay I had to spend a great deal of time at school, but she discovered the city by running nearly every day. I'm not entirely sure where she went myself, but feel confident that she saw all there is to see. It was SO nice to spend time with someone I went to college with. I found myself singing our favorite songs while at school, and laughing out loud on the train back home. I was filled with memories of our summer as Orientation Leaders, and the ridiculous moments we shared. Christie and I walked the city, shopped a bit, caught up on life, enjoyed the Grinzing wine and traditional food experience, skated in the winter wonderland that is the Wiener Eistraum at the Rathaus, drank beer, and reminisced. This was so needed.

I still need Christie's pics of her visit. So here is me excited about beer on one of our jaunts.

In a few short months Christie will be retuning to France to get her Masters. So proud!

Shortly after Frau Katie Schnieder made the journey across the Atlantic to spend some time in Wien. After waiting nearly an hour for her in the airport, she cleared passport control, customs, and baggage and we were together at last. You see, Katie and I have known each other since Freshmen year of college, and this is the longest we've been apart since.

A bit windy at Schoenbrunn

Time seemed to stand still, yet time flew as always. We took a day trip to drizzly yet every gorgeous Salzburg for some mountain air. We ate and did traditional things like no one's business. I'm not sure I could have handled anymore chocolate, and that's saying something.

Katie above Salzburg

We climbed the to the castle in Salzburg, walked the city, enjoyed the Naschmarkt, did some medical anthropology (more on that later), drank some wine, and caught up. I was so excited to have her here that I was trying desperately to show her everything. I think I was successful, as we were both exhausted by the end of every day. I hated having to go to school and leave her behind, though clearly Katie was able to discover things on her own. I just wanted to be there!

Intricate Easter Egg in the Christmas Shop turned EasterChristmas Shop

Katie is now back in Syracuse working towards her masters in nutrition. I am so excited to see her, and Christie, once I return.
Simply put, my friends are awesome, they rock my socks, make my world go round, and I don't know what I would do without them.

Much Love,
Austrian Muffin

My Four Legged Friends

A couple months back I sat in my room, safe from the cold, windy Vienna night, contemplating what to do with myself. I love teaching, but I needed something else. Something active, something adventurous and something new. (Though teaching is all of those!) I stumbled across across Snowdragons' website, and was pulled right in.



How can you resist this face?

 So, I've found myself  running around with a pack of fourteen huskies on the weekends and during my breaks from school.

Standing on the cart so the dogs don't pull it away too fast...dogs freaking out pre run.

Snowdragons is an organization which provides animal assisted therapy to children and teens who have encountered trauma or emotional difficulty in their lives, and caters to fun loving adults and curious tourists as well. I have worked with youth centers, and families there to celebrate birthdays or other special events. Additionally Lukas is interested in racing with the dogs, though the snow is long gone from this part of Austria.



So much love. Lily and Holly.


Here's a rundown of the past weekend
Friday:
Together with Sam, Sarah, Holly, and Dina, a wonderful group of girls from across the globe *Australia, England, Latvia,* I exercised the dogs that wouldn't be running that weekend and cleaned poo out of the kennels. (If you're a dog person this doesn't phase you). We played a round of Frisbee golf and exchanged travel stories.

Saturday:
In the morning we set up the orientation hike- a 6 station hike in which children or teens stop to take a Husky quiz, build a Husky out of natural material like pine cones and sticks, or take a picture of the dog jumping through a hoop- and enjoyed the sunshine. We met the group, from a youth center in Vienna, and I led Marko (person) and Abbraxus (dog) through the hike. I love working with groups like this, you really see the teens losen up and enjoy themselves once we're out in the woods. Smiles are fixed across their faces the entire day. We had a great time speaking a little English and a little German, and laughed every time we hit a big hill. "You can do it Marko go go go!!"(you yell go go go to the dogs..) After we finished we chatted with the group, and a particularly outgoing girl slyly taught our team some choice German slang and chatted to me about my time here. Back to put the dogs back in the kennels, prepare their food, and relax for the evening.

The view from station #1

Discussing her work as a dental tech of some sort. German? English? Teeth? Not falling for her slang...

Sunday:
Post breakfast we cleaned the trailer (doggie transport vehicle), took care of poo, and I ran Nico again. A family came from Vienna, as it was one boy's birthday. His excitement was written all over his face. He was given an hour long kart ride while we stayed with his Aunt and little sister, hanging with the dogs. They both had shorter rides and loved the experience. I rode back with them on the train to Vienna, and both kids chatted non stop about their favorite pup, and the little girl pretended to be a Husky.

This was a much needed weekend. I am so happy I found Snowdragons, and look forward to more volunteer time! I'm back in Vienna, sun kissed and blissed out. Dogs, the woods, amazing people, hysterical laughter, and strange looks by Wieners as I took the U-Bahn covered in mud and pawprints.

Doggy Kisses,
Muffin

Content.

Its a Tuesday. I've just eaten a wonderful dinner of fresh vegetables, bread, and curry hummus from the Naschmarkt followed by an entire Ritter chocolate bar that tastes like a popular Austrian Christmas cookie.

I colored, played trains, sang "Ms. Mary Mack" and clapped along with a delightful seven year old. Fresh apple strudel was waiting downstairs..

I chatted with a small group of students in the school library, which smelled of old books and made me feel cozy and warm.

There was a cow at school today.

Austria, you have my heart.

Productive Sunday

 Today has been a big day for me. Not only have I cut my own hair (yea, really), subsisted nearly entirely off of McVitie's Dark Chocolate Digestives, and not left my apartment, but I've actually booked my flight home.  Home. America. 'Murica. lotfhotb.

 Sunday June 3rd. New York City here I come.

 I'll be flying via Düsseldorf, the city in which my great great grandfather was born. Or someone on my mom's side of the family...I'm not sure who. I'm quite excited about the eight hour layover, as I'll have the chance to have a real lunch, and explore a bit of the city. Germany has a funny way of connecting with me. During the Holidays Pat and I had a wonderful experience in Munich and Bad Toelz, and I felt very connected to the land. It felt like home. Dad essentially picked me up when I studied abroad, and we embarked on a journey through the 'schland that took us through the south, to the far corners of the west, and upwards to Berlin. Amazing. The night we performed our last concert on AMA, Alison and I stayed in the Honeymoon Suite- this was not purposely booked for us- at our hotel in Passau. Passau is also a "hometown" of mine. Needless to say I'm excited to see what this next stop has in store for me..

Destination: Home. Via Home.

Cheers,
Muffin