Of Buda and Pest

A few weeks back, during our long weekend, Nisha Serge and I took a trip to Budapest, Hungary. ‘Twas a weekend of exploration, rain, tea, pictures, and beer.

Here are some snippets from the stream of thought I wrote in my journal:

Buda. Pest. Real. Lived in. Old. War. Hungarian. Goulasch. Indecipherable language. Cinnamon Latte.

 Cinema Hostel. Central European University. International. Committed to change. Gender Studies. Social Anthropology. Thesis. Scary. Amazing. Cheap. Gluehwein. Cheap. Exchange rate. Angry woman in money exchange office. Really angry woman. Coolest tea house ever. I can't remember how to say "Thank You" in Hungarian! Dome. English. Old subway. Loud subway. Post Communist. 1950s. Strange food. Confusing money. Pretty. Rainbow. Double rainbow omg all the way across the sky.

 Parliament. Red Carpet. Visiting important person. Ridiculously good looking men. Hummus bar. Much needed. East meets west. NY landscape. Beautiful Danube.

Beautiful people. Beer. Simple Garden (bar). 1.5 L of beer. Smoke. My eyes are smoking. Catwoman room (our hostel room theme..Bike and Build PROM appropriate!) Small grocery stores. Cheap Joghurt. Weird cheese chocolate thing. Yummy hollow cinnamon pastry thing. Really windy. Opera. Castle. Anonymous Statue. Park. Really, really fast escalators. Scary escalators. Speaking German. Michael Jackson tree.
Orange Ways. Cheap bus. Tired. Is he your brother? Singing Serge. Adele. “I wish nothing but the best for you…uuuu don’t forget me..” Glee. Serge meets another Spaniard! Seriously attractive men. French Toast. Gorgeous city. Adorable Christmas Markets. Awesome local tour guide! "I was like, seriously?"San Francisco guitar. VW van!!

Good friends. Good times. So much laughter :-)

Cheers,
Muffin

You know its a good day when you play Creedence Clearwater Revival, Rusted Root, Old Crow Medicine Show, and Bod Dylan in your class...
Friday was a teacher sanctioned "Fun and Games" day so I decided to bring in listening exercises using some of my favorite songs. The students warmed up with "Wagon Wheel," easily the theme song of my summer, and were fairly accurate in crossing out the words as they heard them. Next they filled in the blanks for "Up Around the Bend."

come on arise and win

and we'll meet by the other day

keep your mind on a crystal haze

Rusted Root's "Send Me on My Way" was quite challenging for them, as it is for any native English speaker..

I mean really..

I would like to reach out my hand..

mbada say mbdada do. (you know what they say about the young)

'OMG ICE AGE!!!!!'

Bob Dylan also proved to be challenging though I let them work in groups.

It was so funny to see them dancing in their seats and sometimes hard to stifle laughter at their answers. However  I was very impressed at their comprehension skills, I shouldn't be talking...my German listening comprehension isn't exactly great. Nor are my normal Bob Dylan skills.

In other news:

I've noticed a recent explosion of the New York Yankees logo here in Austria. Hats. Pencil Pouches. Shirts. Everything. I asked a class about it while holding up said pencil pouch. They guess it was for a football team, the New York Knix, or just for NYC in general. I attempted to explain who the Yankees were but I think the concept was lost on them. Apparently a store, called New Yorker, has started selling products plastered with this logo. Its a big hit with the students.

Alas I will just giggle a bit to myself everytime I see an Austrian proudly wearing the Yankees logo.

Still no snow in Vienna..
8 days until Christmas!
Cheers,
Muffin

Flashbacks

While listening to a fourteen year old student describe his favorite television commercial I couldn't help but notice the Enrique Iglesias lyrics posted on the class cork board. The lyrics were written in purple cursive, under the title "How to Love <3"

Well, folks:

Would you dance
If I asked you to dance?
Would you run
And never look back?
Would you cry
If you saw me crying?
And would you save my soul, tonight?

Would you tremble
If I touched your lips?
Would you laugh?
Oh please tell me this.
Now would you die
For the one you loved?
Hold me in your arms, tonight.

I can be your hero, baby.
I can kiss away the pain.
I would stand by you forever.
You can take my breath away.

Would you swear
That you'll always be mine?
Or would you lie?
Would you run and hide?
Am I in too deep?
Have I lost my mind?
I don't care
You're here tonight.

I can be your hero, baby.
I can kiss away the pain.
I would stand by you forever.
You can take my breath away.

Oh, I just want to hold you.
I just want to hold you.
Am I in too deep?
Have I lost my mind?
I don't care
You're here tonight.

I can be your hero, baby.
I can kiss away the pain.
I will stand by your forever.
You can take my breath away.

I can be your hero.
I can kiss away the pain.
And I will stand by you forever.
You can take my breath away.
You can take my breath away.

I can be your hero.  I have no idea what this student's favorite TV show is, nor any of his peers within the vicinity of these lyrics. I managed to stifle my laughter, but became lost in flashbacks to awkward middle school dances. Needless to say this made my day.

Medical Anthropology

            Since I pay a few hundred Euros a month for health insurance I’m ok with the fact that I actually had to use it.

            The story begins last week when I began experiencing mild tooth pain. No biggie, but I figured I shouldn’t let it go. My teacher Ursula was nice enough to book me an appointment with her dentist and set up all of the details. I woke up yesterday morning, ate, and caught the train to Göllersdorf. This is the same train that goes to Hollabrunn, though I had to take the “slow train” or Schnellbahn (which ironically means fast train) which stops at every village from Vienna to Hollabrunn in lieu of taking the “fast train” which goes directly to Hollabrunn with only two stops in between. I stepped onto the platform in Göllersdorf an hour later, greeted by the smell of fields and farms. If you are from Horseheads, NY, or anywhere upstate, you know what I’m referring to.



This is what happens when you Googleimage Goellersdorf.



The wind rustled and blew my hair in my face as I tried to read the directions I had printed. I was delighted to see that the streets were not marked and that I in fact had no idea where I was. Thankfully the village was extremely small, perhaps the size of the Ithaca College campus, and I managed to arrive only five minutes late. I would have asked for directions and arrived on time, but there was literally no one in sight. The village was dead. It was like a Stephen King book. Eerie. I got the feeling that I was riding through one of those extremely small towns (read: three streets, no stores, no schools, nothing) we encountered in the Midwest on Bike and Build. I could see the limits of the village while on the train platform. It was surrounded by fields and vineyards. And there was no one there.



Train station.



            The Dentist was the most happening place in town, and had a very futuristic feel with completely mirrored walls and modern red chairs. You had no choice but to look at yourself while reading the Austrian equivalent of Better Homes and Gardens.

            And so begins my dental adventure. At first my insurance card wouldn’t work. The receptionist put it in a credit card reader type machine and it came up blank. Awesome. I was asked to fill out a form pertaining to my medical history, but due to my American-ness was kindly allowed to fill in my name and birthday. “Are you allergic?” “Do you have baby?” No no no. “Ok you sit now.” I waited for forty-five minutes in a room full of men over fifty. They were all rather adorable, and we greeted each other upon entering the room -“Gruss Gott” -or parting ways -“Wiederschon.” There was a sense of community, we were all in this together. I was X-rayed. I waited another thirty minutes.

            The receptionist, she was very nice and I think she liked me, told me that the insurance company will send me another card in a few days. All is good.

            Once in the chair I was asked why I was in Austria and how I find it. There was a red light-up bear staring at me from the corner. I think it was supposed to be for Christmas, but who knows. The room was also very modern; with glass everywhere and a large computer screen displaying my x-rayed jaw right in front of my face. Instead of paper, they put a plastic bib around your neck.

            Dr. Denninger arrived and politely asked “what can I do for you today?” I explained my situation and we had a look at my X-ray. My opinion mattered, and she discussed the image with me as if I was an expert. She was delightfully friendly and not at all condescending. I didn’t sense the doctor-patient power disparity like I often do in the US. She asserted her opinion and then actually asked mine. She then poked around in my mouth. Without rubber gloves.

            My X-ray looked fine, and after hitting my tooth repeatedly with a metal object and asking if it hurt more than the others (yes, ouch) she conceded that there actually wasn’t anything wrong with me. No visible infection, a good filling, healthy gums, etc. I am to take antibiotics- not psyched- and if I don’t feel a change in five days I am to visit her colleague in Vienna for another consultation.

            I was in and out of the chair in fifteen minutes, though I spent almost two hours in the office. I had to take the train to Hollabrunn in order to get back to Vienna thus the whole ordeal wasn’t over until 1 o’clock.

            Overall this was sort of a pleasant experience. No shrill drilling noises, no screaming, and a polite staff. No one seemed nervous or anxious, we were just kind of hanging out in this glass room listening to Lady Gaga and 80s throwbacks. No co-pay. My prescription cost a mere 5 euro 50 and was filled in seconds, no ritual thirty minute wait while the Pharmacist twiddles her thumbs. Thank you, Austria.

Weihnachten

Well, I’m four pieces of delicious Milka chocolate into my Advent calendar meaning the holiday season is officially upon us. Vienna is simply magical. Austria is simply magical. I love this city and I love this country.

Thanksgiving was certainly different this year. TAs in Niederoesterreich received an invitation for an formal governmental welcome for that Thursday and I made the journey to St. Poelten with my colleagues. We were given an extensive tour of the land museum, government buildings, and presented with a wonderful spread of cold cuts, bread, cheese, and assorted alcoholic beverages. However the governor himself happened to be “too busy” for us making the whole thing a bit of a disappointment. I was unable to make my much anticipated mashed potatoes and squash until Saturday due to this evening out and my school’s open house on Friday night. Needless to say I sort of pigged out and still have a surplus of potatoes. I do miss pumpkin pie, turkey, and stuffing. Oh Pumpkin pie..

Walking through the main square in Hollabrunn and nearly anywhere in Vienna fills me with that warm and fuzzy holiday feeling, and certainly makes up for Thanksgiving. A rather large tree now sits in Hollabrunn and the streets are full of Glüwein stands. Vienna is absolutely glowing. Lights illuminate the streets with shades of blue, white, and gold and I can’t help wish I was a child again. Christmas markets are bustling and full of energy and joy. Joy. I can’t think of a better word. Everything is, again, just so warm and fuzzy. You can’t help but feel giddy and jolly.

So far I’ve been to a few Christmas markets with friends, and have loved them all. The Rathaus market is closest to my apartment, but its extremely gawdy and touristy. I was equate it to Coeur D’Alene, Idaho. Pristine setting and backdrop, yet confusingly consumerist and touristy contents. The Punsch tastes like Robitussin.

Idaho. I mean, the Rathaus.

However this is easily countered by Schönbrunn and Spitelberg, which are very traditional and quaint.

Yesterday a group of us ventured to Steyr, a typically Austrian (read: fairytale type of charming) town in OberOesterreich. We spent the day roaming the cobblestone streets, taking in the Christmas air and enjoying sweet treats. The main square was full of stands and shops selling handcrafted gifts and tasty treats; lots of metal workers demonstrating their talents and other artisans displaying their works. I’m pretty sure we made the local news by simply standing and gawking at the blacksmiths. While eating ridiculously delicious (and oily!) Goulasch we were serenaded by the men’s choir and horn ensemble. It was all just too precious.

While I gawk at the Christmas atmosphere and all of this Austria-ness I struggle to put this into words. Yes, it is precious. We simply don’t have anything like this in America. I’m sorry, but only in Austria is it completely normal to find the adorable old man in his leiderhosen drinking wine and belting holiday tunes with his buddies in the center of town. Or a woman offering her “homemade medicine” for 2.50, aka Jagermeister with a hint of something we just can’t put our fingers on. When asked where she was from she responded, simply, the North Pole.  

Lately I have just felt my heart fill with love and joy. I am so completely happy and content in this city.

Well I’ve taken a bit of a hiatus from blogging but I’m back, I promise. The past month has been rather eventful and I feel quite content having settled into my apartment and routine here in Vienna.

A quick rundown of events which have transpired:

-David coming to visit. The walking tour of Vienna, the Opera, and amazing culinary delights. We enjoyed a candle lit, music filled dinner in Grinzing in which David sampled traditional fare and I enjoyed a stuffed goose. Yes, you read that right. Stuffing, Goose, and beat salad. The ultimate comfort food.



Fall colors by the Hofburg.



-I met up with my friend and former professor Heidi. She treated me to a delicious meal at a traditional restaurant complete with savory and sweet pumpkin seeds, the best wine I’ve had yet, and delicious desert. (I wasn’t kidding about culinary delights!) It was so wonderful to see her and catch up. IES seems like such a long time ago, though being back in the city allows me to relive many memories!

-Fellow Fulbrighters and I were given a tour of the Theater an der Wien. I wish my pictures had turned out better. The theater itself was stunning, and shined with blue and gold décor. While the tour was done I German I felt that I understood a decent amount and was able to follow most of what was being said. Progress.

-Following the tour my friend Lauren and I ran to the Musikverein to take in the Brahms Requiem. I don’t even know what to say here. Having studied this piece in my IES music history course I was beyond excited to hear it in person, by the Vienna Philharmonic. It just doesn’t get any better than this..

Well, needless to say, I was pretty much floored by the first note and giddy with excitement throughout the performance. Bliss.

-In the spirit of all that is musical and Viennese I continued my evening at the Opera with An Italian in Algiers. We played the overture back in High School- oh wind ensemble!- so I was also ridiculously excited about this performance. My friends and I honestly enjoyed every moment of the Opera, though it was wildly sexist and totally un pc.

-We ended the night at our favorite bar. I’m not entirely sure what its real name is, but we refer to it as “Scrabble Bar” as we play German Scrabble every time. The owners know us and our drinks of choice. Can’t complain.

-Tag dur Offen Tur. (Open House). I stood in the back corner of the language room as groups of parents and prospective students were led around the BHAK and ultimately to the language room. I felt a bit awkward just standing in front of American-ness (a flag, baseball glove, my bike and build stuff) and didn’t really know what to say. I ended up introducing myself and talking a bit about America. The students sitting with me would then give a schpeel  auf Deutsch about my classroom appearances. This was quite entertaining as they would refer to me as “die Kaitlin” or literally, “the Kaitlin.” Yes!

-On Thursday Nisha and I rode the CATS train home. No, really. The engine was completely black, with the white cat from CATS perched near the window… OEBB does such interesting advertising partnerships I really just can’t explain this.

What?!

-I actually went on a rather successful run last Sunday as the weather was unusually warm and sunny. Through the old neighborhood, up Kaasgrabenstrasse, and down through Grinzing. Oh, memories.

Hey December!

 Quick note... I have heard this song at least twice, no, probably more than twice, every day since the beginning of November.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8gmARGvPlI&ob=av3e

Makes me want to spend Christmas in a secluded Alpine hut. I'll tease my hair and wear stylish tights and an oversized sweater.

And I'll surely be that man at 1:40 who's super excited to be playing in the schnee.

Happy Holidays!!